The New Rules of Belaying

Last weekend I saw a friend get dropped by his belayer. Out of the corner of my eye, I saw a body whizzing down way too close to the ground. Fortunately, after falling about 30 feet, the climber came to a stop literally inches before he hit the ground. A few weeks earlier, another set […]

3 Climbing Gear Trends Worth a Look

I traversed down the main aisle of the Outdoor Retailer Trade Show like a zombie, transfixed by a set of enormous breasts coming directly toward me. Breasts have a certain ocular magnetism that goes so far beyond their base sexual appeal and really turns into something more akin to seeing a car accident on the […]

The Day I Sent a Triple Link-up in Red Rock

Nearly penniless, I pulled into Austin, Texas, during the early days of March 1997 with a plan to make some quick cash. I was going to do something I thought I’d never do. I was going to sell my body to science. The plan, hatched 500 miles away in Hueco Pete’s parking lot, had first […]

Almighty Dolomites

“There’s people down here!” “Yeah, watch it, you Austrian pigs!” Jesse Mattner and I were yelling to no one—no one who could possibly hear us anyway. Rockfall rained and we cowered closer to our anchor of 80-year-old pitons, protruding like little black roots, necrotic and flexing in the shattered stone. We were a mere 300 […]