Training with Justen Sjong, Part 2

There are a few things that every climber should do in his or her life. Climb El Cap (obviously). See a longterm climbing project to completion. Take a huge, unexpected whipper onto your trad gear. And schedule a 1-on-1 training session with “The Sensei”: Justen Sjong. Over the last three years, I’ve had two sessions […]

Joe Kinder: “Training Works”

On our first day at the Korea Wall, a Basque Country “local’s crag” that happens to be stacked with completely badass 30-meter resistance routes, it was hotter than a Tennessee hippie’s taint at Bonnaroo—and nearly as humid, too. Plus, everyone in my crew—Adam “Brams” Long, Lindsey Tjian and Joe Kinder—were all still feeling depleted from […]

The Curse of the First Female Ascent

This year there have been a number of interesting online discussions about issues specific to women climbers: from observations of underlying sexism, to deciphering whether a climber’s recognition is a product of her beauty or her achievement (or both; and if so, then which was more of a factor?), to a recent debate over the […]

Quiet Crusher: Margo Hayes 

Margo Hayes doesn’t always climb outdoors, but when she does, it tends to catch the attention of those who wonder just who this quiet crusher is. Over two weekends in Rifle last summer, the 17-year-old  comp climber from Boulder flashed Cryptic Egyptian (5.13c); redpointed Double Rainbow (5.14a) and Zulu (5.14a) in the same day, then […]