Catch a Hangboard Buzz

Finger Strength Matters You could argue that finger strength determines your climbing level more than anything else. And training on a hangboard is the most productive, effective and efficient way I have found to get stronger fingers. As a sport climber whose natural strength trends more toward endurance than power, I’ve always enjoyed huge gains […]

Adam Ondra Turns Pain to Joy

On August 23 in Munich, Adam Ondra narrowly beat a really tough field to become the bouldering World Champion. He eked out his victory in dramatic fashion, winning on the very last problem before an audience of 6,000+ people. Less than a month later, on September 14 in Gijon, Spain, Ondra won the Lead World […]

The Day I Sent Golden Gate

It’s been about six years since I sent Flight of the Challenger—a 5.12 (12b? 12c?) trad climb at Squamish. It says a lot that I don’t remember the things you’re supposed to remember—like the route’s grade. I vaguely recall an uninspiring peg at the start, and a crazy, technical groove at the top. What I […]

Blue Steel: A Permadraw Solution

Rifle Mountain Park is the Roman navel of the permadraw craze that has spread to sport crags around the country. But up until this summer, the Rifle Climbers’ Coalition (of which I am a board member) had no official policy regarding the installation of new, or maintenance of old permadraws. Fortunately, we now have some […]