Alex Megos Completes His Longest Project

Sep 11, 2014 | News | 0 comments

Sep 11, 2014 | News | 0 comments

MegosAlex Megos finally redpointed something … That’s a joke of course, because up until now the 21-year-old Megos has either onsighted or flashed—or come very close to onsighting or flashing—or has just very quickly redpointed—nearly every hard route that he has sent. Now according to his recent Facebook post, Megos has established a new route that actually took him a “normal” amount of effort.

“FINALLY!!! LONGEST PROJECT EVER so far!!! ‘Geocache’ took me 6 DAYS and 40+ TRIES! Despite this fact I don’t think it is really hard, just a bit strange… here the coordinates for the geocachers: N 49.634386, O 11.594101 go and find out”

So, there you go. Geocache is located in the Frankenjura, infamous for its short, fingery routes and for containing many of the single hardest moves ever completed on a rope. Megos didn’t give Geocache a grade, per se. But considering that Megos is a Frankenjura uber-local who bone-crushes that style of climbing, it’s safe to say that however weird Geocache may be, it’s also certainly pretty damn hard (5.15b? 5.15c?).

After climbing Geocache, Megos celebrated by chucking laps on two 9a’s: Action Directe and Sundance Kid (an 8c that broke and is now 9a). This is now, apparently, also the fourth time Megos has redpointed Action Directe—making what was once the world’s hardest rock climb now officially a warm down

“After that I went to ACTION DIRECTE to belay and also did my 4th ASCENT of it first try (even the jump) on that day!  Still having time we went to “Sundance Kid” an 8c where a hold broke and I reclimbed that making it 9a!”

He has proven himself to be incredibly solid at the 5.14d/5.15a grade, often dispatching routes of this difficulty within one day of effort. Megos came out of nowhere onto the climbing scene when in 2013 he onsighted Estado Critico (5.14d), at Siurana and reportedly very stout for the grade. This was officially the world’s first 9a onsight. Then he nearly flashed La Rambla (5.15a), also at Siurana and which would’ve been another world’s first.  This summer Megos quietly visited Ceuse and made the first one-day ascent of Realization (5.15a), which he took him a whole three tries.

Thanks to Claudia Ziegler for the photos. Please visit her website and follow her on Facebook.

About The Author

Andrew Bisharat

Andrew Bisharat is a writer and climber based in western Colorado. He is the publisher of Evening Sends and the co-host of The RunOut podcast.

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