The La Sportiva Mantra is an ultralight, stripped-down, super-sensitive slipper that makes it perfect for gym-climbing and bouldering. This is not a “quiver of one” climbing shoe. I wouldn’t recommend using the La Sportiva Mantra as your primary sport-climbing shoe, for example. However it is my go-to slipper for gym and training sessions. Because of its No Edge design that, by definition, virtually never wears out, the La Sportiva Mantra can stand up to hundreds of days on plastic.

Should you buy it? Yes. If you spend any time gym climbing, you should consider saving the edge on your normal climbing shoes, and dedicate a pair of climbing slippers that are strictly reserved for gym sessions. The La Sportiva Mantra, along with the Scarpa Furia Air and the La Sportiva Futura, are my two top picks for gym-climbing shoes.

La Sportiva Mantra

Where to Buy

REI

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La Sportiva Mantra Specs

  • Fit: Asymmetrical
  • Weight: 5.2oz (150g)
  • Upper: Microfiber & Leather / Injected PU Artwork / 2 heel pull-tabs
  • Unlined
  • Midsole: Leather Insole / P3 System™
  • Sole: 1/2 Sole No-Edge® Dynamic Technology (D-Tech™) / Differentiated 1-2mm Vibram® XS Grip2™ Rubber
  • $169 MSRP

What I like

 

The La Sportiva Mantra is similar to the La Sportiva Futura, another shoe I’ve enjoyed in the past. It feels even softer and mores sensitive than the Futura did, however. The lack of midsole in the Mantra makes the shoe easy to flex with your toes. I can splay my foot across a volume and feel as if I’m getting maximum smearing purchase on that hold. But I can also use my toe strength to stand on a tiny edge.

The No Edge design takes some getting used to, especially if you’re accustomed to climbing with a pointier toe box. But it’s surprisingly solid at edging, and a great tool for helping you really learn how to stand on your toes.

There’s virtually no support to this shoe, so it gives you a barefoot climbing experience, which I think is especially important while training in the gym, since it builds up your toe strength and ability to stand on edges all day long. Sportiva shoes tend to run narrow for me, as someone with a wide-ish foot, but the Mantra fit perfectly and comfortably.

What I don't like

Very little. I might gripe about the heel-hooking capabilities in this slipper if I were doing lots of bouldering outside with this shoe … but I’m not. I see the Mantra as being a premiere gym-climbing shoe, and so I’m trying to stick judging it based on that view. It’s perhaps only a mid-tier bouldering slipper. I wouldn’t want to sport climb in this shoe because it’s too soft to support my feet during a full day of cragging.

How I tested it

Seven months of use, climbing in the gym, MoonBoarding, and some days of bouldering outside on gneiss blocks.

Other options to consider

The Scarpa Furia Air is another, even lighter option that fits this category of ultra-sensitive, high-performing slippers. You can read my review of the Scarpa Furia Air here. The Furia Air, however, is $50 more expensive, but it does have some additional support with a cross-foot strap. If you like the No Edge design, but want a little more support and a strap, consider the La Sportiva Futura as well.