Best for High Performance

Ratings

Review

The Drago LV is a long-awaited low -volume version of Scarpa’s iconic Drago shoe. It’s a soft, ultra-sensitive climbing shoe, with a precise, downturned toe.

They were supple and comfortable right out of the box, which made my feet very happy. I had no trouble feeling small nubs and shallow divots through the 3.5mm of Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber. For fit: the toe box on the Drago LV was wider and for me more accommodating than other high-performance shoes like the La Sportiva Solution Comp. They’re also easier to put on and take off than many slipper-style shoes I’ve worn, which made them standouts for bouldering.

Thin, flexible rubber made finding heel and toe hooks a more tactile and precise experience than my usual scumming-around-till-it-sticks technique. I love the Drago LV on steep boulder problems and overhanging sport routes. They’re a little too soft for me to feel secure on anything vertical or techy. Over time the Drago LV has had minimal stretch, and has only gotten more comfortable as they have molded to my feet.

Best for Bouldering and Gym

Ratings

Review

Goodbye stiff, molded heel cup; hello Solution Comp! The next iteration of the crowd-pleasing Solution is softer and has more toe rubber without messing with the neoprene sock and single tab closure that we all love. The new Comp also drops what always felt like the Achilles heel (cup) of previous Solution models in favor of a more sensitive, lower profile and most importantly, more comfortable design that still feels very secure.

The new heel cup and softer midsole significantly shortened the break in period for these shoes, but they still took a handful of sweaty pitches to form to my foot. The combination of a precise pointed toe and a sensitive heel and plenty of toe rubber make these a great bouldering and gym/comp shoe that performed well on small dishes and edges as well as steeper more three dimensional climbing. Sizing is spot on with previous Solutions.

Best All-Around

Ratings

Review

The NAID VCS (Nose in a Day) is a modern update of the classic, teal women’s Anasazi LV VCS. This flat-lasted shoe felt slightly softer and more sensitive than previous versions without losing its killer edging performance. I also thought the updated heel cup transferred power to the toes more effectively with less pressure on my heel than older models. The Five Ten Stealth C4 rubber hasn’t lost its touch either, and still feels like the stickiest option for those routes where friction really makes a difference.

Sized up, these are a great option for intermediate or beginner climbers who feel more comfortable in a flat shoe or size them tighter for a high performance fit that will get you up puckering granite slabs and barely-vert edges. Overall, a great update to a classic, if you’ve been wearing the original Anasazis LV’s since they launched (you know who you are, Jen Bisharat) it might be time to give these new kids on the block a try.

Best Gym Shoe

Ratings

Review

With the price of climbing shoes rising faster than inflation, it feels excessive to shell out $200+ just to trash a pair of shoes on the 9 foot tall board of your choice. The Scarpa Veloce is a more affordable option that is sensitive, flexible and with 4mm of Scarpa S72 rubber, it’s durable enough for plastic abuse.

The slightly boxy toe was comfortable enough to leave on in between boulder problems, but it did feel clunkier when climbing than the svelter toe profiles I’m used to. Indoors, that wasn’t a major issue since gym holds are usually obvious, protruding and neon green, but I wasn’t tempted to turn these babies feral on real rock.

The soft midsole was great for training foot strength in a controlled, domesticated environment. Overall a great shoe for people wanting longer lasting gym shoes, or for beginners looking to level up into a more performance driven shape without crushing your tootsies (or the bank).

Best for Sport Climbing

Ratings

Review

Tech it out in the Scarpa Instinct VS Women’s. These vert-lovers are my favorite for the sharp limestone of Southern Utah. The edging platform is intuitive, sensitive, and supportive without feeling stiff. And I prefer the Velcro design for easy on and off between pitches, but the lace-up version is also equally high performing and can help you dial in the fit.

The slightly padded tongue protected the top of my foot from pressure points even when laced up snuggly. The stretch on these was minimal thanks to a rubberized girdle encompassing the shoe and ample toe rubber, the extra circumferential support also eliminated any twisting or shifting of the shoe on my foot when I really posted up on teeny tiny holds. The Instinct is my pick for a more supportive shoe that excels on vertical or slightly overhanging sport routes.

Best for Steep Climbing

Ratings

Review

The La Sportiva Women’s Theory is possibly the softest shoe I have ever worn. The sensitivity and grabbiness on steep routes and problems was unmatched. And, with an uninterrupted runway of rubber running from the toe to the velcro strap, toe hooks or scums were hard to miss.

These broke in and conformed to my foot quickly, but still took some thoughtful adjusting when getting them on to keep my toes from getting crammed awkwardly together—those with wider feet may want to check out other shoes, but those with narrow feet will be psyched. Otherwise, the Theory fit great and securely with zero dead space or gapping. The chiseled toe on these felt sensitive and precise on small holds too, but without any midsole support, they’re best reserved for steeper overhanging terrain.