The Best Climbing Shoes for Sport Climbing

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Apr 23, 2021 | Best Climbing Gear | 0 comments

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Apr 23, 2021 | Best Climbing Gear | 0 comments

The Best Sport Climbing Shoes of 2021

Introducing our picks for the best climbing shoes for sport climbing that you can buy this year.

These selections reflect a specific preference for what we look for in a sport-climbing shoes: the right balance of sensitivity, support, and performance.

Read the Evening Sends Guide to choosing climbing shoes.

Whether you’re breaking into 5.12 or projecting 5.14, these shoes are 2021’s best performers.

La Sportiva Theory

  • “Comp” shoe that excels on steep sport routes, especially limestone.
  • Best for narrow to mid-wide feet.
  • Same aggressive asymmetric last (P3 Platform) as other Sportiva shoes.
  • MSRP $190

The La Sportiva Theory may have been created in theory for indoor bouldering and comp climbing, but in practice these shoes also excel on steep sport climbs.

More and more, we prefer very soft shoes for higher-end sport climbs, as they allow superior performance on smears and hard-to-feel edges. Strong toes, however, are required to make these shoes work on normal edges. The Theory delivers excellent sensitivity, with its No Edge technology and Vibram XSGrip2 rubber, to feel more secure the most insecure footholds.

If you have narrow-ish feet and want a high-performing sensitive slipper that excels on everything from parkour problems in the gym to 5.14 real rock climbs, check out the Theory.


Scarpa Chimera

  • Highly aggressive last and sharp downturned toe for steep routes and boulders
  • Leather upper with rubber overlays balance fit with performance
  • Toe Power System stiffens the toe for enhanced precision
  • Vibram XS Grip has a softer feel for better traction on microscopic footholds

The Scarpa Chimera is no mythical beast though its power on steep rock sometimes feels surreal. This shoe is a fire-breathing dragon that lays waste to hard projects. A plastic insert under the toe box not only preserves the Chimera’s downturned shape after lots of mileage, but provides a bit of support and power on overhanging rocks.

We called the Scarpa Chimera “a strong contender for the best sport climbing shoe on the market” back in 2017, and honestly, it’s an honorific that almost certainly remains.


La Sportiva Testarossa

  • Aggressive and asymmetric downturn designed for precision and overhangs
  • Sticky Vibram XS Grip 2
  • Supple arch and stiff toes

This shoe is an OG performer in the sport-climbing game, and a favorite among many for its high-performing asymmetrical downturned shape. After 15-plus years of service, the legendary La Sportiva Testarossa recently received a thoughtful update. The new Testarossa is constructed on the same last as the older version so overall, the fit, feel, and sizing of the shoe is unchanged. Some things are too good to change.


Scarpa Boostic

  • Moderately aggressive and highly asymmetric fit makes this an all-around performer on sport climbs
  • 3.5mm XS Edge delivers top-notch performance and sensitivity
  • Synthetic upper with hook and loop closure

Although most shoes on this list are quite soft, we wanted to include a shoe that is made for climbers who prefer a little more support, especially on vertical routes with lots of edging. The new Scarpa Boostic has some major updates over its beloved predecessor, including a full-length sole that gives climbers amazing support on edges.

And yet, despite this support, the Boostic aims to achieve a bit more sensitivity than its predecessor. This adjustment may leave some fans of the old Boostic searching for a stiffer replacement, but we prefer the performance upgrade that this new design gives.


La Sportiva Miura VS

  • High asymmetrical shoe with slight downturn for best-in-class edging
  • Slingshot rand maintains lateral support
  • Stiff with a lengthy break-in period

The stiffest shoe on this list, the Miura VS is an edging machine. Its harpoon-like toe excels in pockets, in particular, in ways that other shoes don’t. Those with wide feet may want to consider other shoes, but those with narrow feet will love the slender suction-cup fit and razor precision.

This shoe has a significant break-in period and will improve after a few weeks of mileage. Once broken in, however, these shoes climb really well and provide support and performance that lasts the life of the shoe.


Featured image: Chris Sharma climbing in Margalef, spain. Photo: Corey Rich

About The Author

Editors

Evening Sends solicits the opinions and reviews of a crew gear testers, reviewers, punters, and occasional senders to collaborate on creating authentic unfiltered opinions about climbing gear.

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