I was in college when Chris Sharma did the first ascent of the Biographie extension at Céuse. At the time the internet’s primary function, at least in my crude estimation, was to allow for the acquisition of pirated material. Thus, my hard drive was filled primarily with music copped from Napster and Climb X Media bouldering videos. The video of Sharma sending what was then called Realization and considered the world’s first 5.15 was one of my most cherished files on my computer.

I watched that video before any climbing outing to get hyped up, or anytime I felt like procrastinating coursework. The progression of distinctive Sharma screams, culminating in a big one when he sticks the jug at the end of the crux sequence—cue the reggae—are etched in my memory and still connected to a certain adrenal response.

When I watch this remastered release of Margo Hayes doing the first female ascent of what is arguably the world’s first 5.15, of course I couldn’t help but find myself comparing the two videos. Margo’s groundbreaking ascent in 2017 came 16 years after Sharma’s. (She was only 3 years old at the time he did it.) Watching this video of Margo Hayes, which was featured in a recent REEL ROCK tour, and thinking back to that old Chris Sharma video, I find myself thinking that her ascent completes the story of Biographie in some interesting way.

I’ve long admired Margo Hayes’ climbing style—the epitome of gracefulness and poise. Her posture on the wall is perfect. She stands tall and keeps her hips close to the rock. This video captures her precision and masterful execution of each move. She’s looking for feet in synchronicity to latching handholds. She’s not screaming or flexing but flowing. I grimace at invoking the cliche of dancing up the wall, but if there were ever a climber for whom this analogy is felicitous, it must be Margo Hayes.

Of course not all first female ascents are inherently noteworthy (just as not all first ascents are inherently noteworthy), but some are. This one absolutely is. And that’s what I mean when I say that her ascent completes the story of Biographie.

This video captures an expression of pinnacle feminine climbing prowess. I’m struck by the contrast to Sharma’s paradigmatic masculine display. This duality encompasses everything that’s great about rock climbing. Behold how one route, one sequence etched into a beautiful piece of stone eons ago, becomes this stage upon which men and women can simultaneously achieve equal standing and do so in such strikingly different ways by appealing to their innate and natural strengths.

If this doesn’t get you hyped up, I don’t know what would.

Cheers to the REEL ROCK crew for treating us to this recent spate of remastered releases.