The new Furia S is a softer iteration of the Furia but not as soft as the Furia Air, with some other great improvements as well. Whereas the original Furia had two bulky Velcro Straps, the Furia S has slimmed down to a single, thin Z-pull strap. I really like this change; it just makes the shoe feel even more high-performing and it’s easier to get on. The other big change is the addition of more toe rubber, which makes the Furia S one of the best toe-hookers I’ve worn. The idea that one “toe-hooks” becomes an outdated term since you can actually hook with the entire top-side of your foot.

Specifications

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Highly asymmetric, soft and aggressive shoe designed for steep bouldering and sport climbing.

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Unique active rand connects the heel to forefoot with a tensioned band. Adds support and shape without making the shoe “stiff.”

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M50 rubber that wraps around the forefoot and translates the power directly to the tips of the toes.

Fit

To compare the Furia S to the sock-like Drago, both are equally soft—or, if there is a difference here, I can’t really tell. The Furia S is a narrower and much more asymmetric shoe, which will make lower-volume feet happier. The toe is also pointier than the Drago, which isn’t necessarily good or bad from a performance standpoint, but just requires getting used to if you’re coming from a different last.

Performance

Where the Furia S does seem to have an edge over the Drago, at least in terms of performance, is in heel-hooking. I’ve had some trouble heel-hooking with the Drago. The Furia S offers slight improvement, perhaps due to a better-fitting heel.

All in all, another outstanding offering from Scarpa, who is currently making the highest-performing shoes on the market, in my humble opinion.

Pros

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Outstanding soft-shoe performance, where sensitivity is paired with a tensioned asymmetric and downturned shape. 

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Excellent toe-hooking and heel-hooking performance (better than the Drago) thanks to rubber wrap.

Cons

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Thin rubber may be too thin for some climbers and wear out quickly.

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Requires strong toes to get the most out of this shoe.