detailThe Scarpa Techno X is a flat-lasted and comfortable edging shoe that packs in a lot of performance features for all-day high-end routes. Sporting a medium- if low-volume fit, this shoe will be a great option for 5.9 to 5.11 climbers looking for all-day comfort on tons of edging or crack climbing. However, it’s too stiff to really work well on smeary slabs.  I’d recommend it for crack climbing in both the desert and Yosemite.

 Scarpa’s bi-tension rand packs in a lot of toe power into a flat lasted shoe. I could confidently stand on the tiniest edges.The stiff sole, however, compromised smearing capabilities. Smearing gets better as the shoe softens and breaks in; however, expect a few weeks of constant wear for it to achieve that balance of sensitivity to performance.

There was too much dead space in the shoe’s heel to really give the Techno X high marks as a hooking shoe. A lower-volume heel and a higher arch would’ve made this really comfortable shoe even better. A higher arch would’ve added support and suctioned the heel onto my foot better. A bit of toe rubber atop the foot helps with toe hooking.

On cracks, the Techno X can handle cracks of all sizes and shapes. I appreciated the toe rubber atop the foot for layback cracks, especially

 

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