The Five Ten Anasazi Moccasym (MSRP $115) is a soft, flat-lasted slipper that is great for gym climbing, sport climbing and bouldering—but really shines as a crack climbing shoe. A long-time favorite among climbers, the Moccasym is one of the most comfortable climbing shoes on the market. It has a symmetrical shape, is easy on, easy off, and is suitable to a wide range of climbing applications and will fit most climbers’ feet well.
However, it stretches a lot and the heel could be lower volume (with less rubber) for a more comfortable fit.
There’s a reason the Five Ten Anasazi Moccasym has lasted over two decades on the competitive climbing-shoe market. This Spartan red slipper has withstood the test of time, grades and changing climbing styles thanks to its core devoted following of gym climbers, sport climbers and crack climbers who prefer a basic, soft slipper for everything they do.
My favorite application for the Moccs is crack climbing in Indian Creek. Once they break in, after a couple weeks of wear, these slippers attain a certain harmony with vertical desert splitters. Like key to lock, they seem made to fit in cracks. The lack of Velcro and laces is preferable in these situations, too: nothing to collect sand, and nothing to interfere with twisting your foot into the vertical crack.
Size these shoes small, and plan on spending two painful weeks stretching them out. These slippers will stretch up to a size and a half!
The Moccasyms are too flat-lasted and soft to be exceptional at edging, though they can get the job done on finger-sized edges. Their softness and sticky Stealth C4 rubber provide a sense of security while smearing on even the sandiest footholds.
These shoes are not designed for really extreme heel hooks. The heel may slip off your foot, in fact, if you try pulling too hard or your slipper isn’t sized appropriately. That said, the softness of the shoe allows you to bend your toes up and hook rock features.
Except for the first two weeks of stretching your shoes out, the Moccasyms are one of the most comfortable slippers on the market.
Bottom line, this shoe is a great deal for any climber, especially as you can find these for well under $100 online. They last a really long time, especially if you’re just using them as a crack-climbing shoe and not wearing down the edges. Even still, they will hold up to a resoling or two.