The Five Ten Dragon (MSRP $165) is an aggressive, down-turned shoe for high-performance sport climbing. What I like about the shoe is that it’s aggressive, with a design that lends itself to edging and hooking on the steepest rock climbs. The Stealth HF rubber is extremely sticky.
However, the shoe takes a long time to lace and unlace; therefore, not ideal for bouldering/gym where you’ll be removing shoes frequently. My biggest peeve, however, is the uncomfortable, baggy heel that doesn’t fit my foot.
The Dragon Lace-up is a re-make of the original Dragon, one of the very first aggressively down-turned high-performance shoes ever made—the result of designs by bouldering legends Fred Nicole and Dave Graham. Today, the Dragon’s cult following continues among those whose feet it fits. People with wide, high-volume feet looking for a high-performance shoe will definitely want to check this out. The heel left way too much dead space for me, however. But the downturned toe with super-sticky rubber allowed me to toe in on the tiniest edges, even in upside-down roof situations.
The poorly fitting heel, however, left a lot of dead space under my heel and the arch of my foot, while my toes were scrunched. The shoe also came up too far around my ankle, digging into my Achilles