five-ten-anasazi-laceupThe Five Ten Pink Anasazi Lace-up (MSRP $150) is a comfortable, flat-lasted shoe for all types of face climbing. The original classic pink Anasazi from the 1990s returns better than ever with a lower-volume heel and C4 rubber. A synthetic-lined, lace-up shoe built for standing on the tiniest dime edges.

Few minor quibbles with this shoe: the shoe’s tongue moves around a bit. And the laces are hard to tie and untie.

Leo Houlding was rumored to have saved a fresh pair of Pink Anasazi’s from the 1990s for a rainy-day project, which came during the season he finally redpointed his 10-year project on El Capitan: The Prophet. Needless to say, these shoes excel at a certain type of technical face/crack climbing. But these shoes are all-purpose, and will have a place in the gym or at the sport crag. 

I don’t recommend these for bouldering because of how long it takes to actually take the shoe on and off. A fussy lacing system makes getting your foot into, and out of, the shoe needlessly complicated. 

I really appreciate that shape of the toe: slightly asymmetrical, but rounded which allows you to edge any which way you can imagine. The medium-stiff sole of 4mm of Five Ten’s proprietary and ultra-sticky C4 rubber never rolls up over your toes when edging. It provides real support and excels when footholds get small.

Smearing was nearly equally as impressive as the edging. The shoe bends and flexes enough with your foot to allow you to smear into tiny dishes, yet it retains enough support for all-day edging comfort.

In terms of heel-hooking and toe-hooking performance, these shoes are only average, if not poor. 

Five Ten, in my opinion, has long suffered from making shoes with a poorly-fitting heel that rides up too high over my ankle/Achilles tendon. Many of those problems have been address with the new Anasazi Pink and its lower volume heel. 

This shoe could easily be sized for all-day comfort or smaller for toe-curling single-pitch performance.  The synthetic lining is pretty comfortable for single-pitches, but in hot-weather the shoe has trouble breathing and becomes less comfortable.

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