The Evolv Nexxo is the newest addition to Evolv’s Chris Sharma Signature Series, designed by the maestro himself, is the Nexxo: a semi-stiff downturned slipper for high-end bouldering and sport climbing. It is an easy on, easy off performance slipper with a suction-cup fit and an asymmetrical last. A Velcro strap provides arch support under foot, while a comfortable micro-fiber lining keeps the shoe comfortable during a long pitch. However, the heel was too high-volume for my wide foot.

For steep climbing of any variety, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a better, more powerful edging shoe than the new Evolv Nexxo. This a great high-performance Nexxoslipper that does it all surprisingly well. Chris Sharma has been behind the design from the beginning, and it shows in the final product. I loved the soft heel, fully coated in rubber, that made hooking a breeze; I just wish it was a little lower volume.

A tensioned rand, plus the asymmetrical semi-soft last create a shoe with lots of toe power. I felt precise and powerful standing on the tiniest edges.

The shoe flexes more than enough to get a nice big patch of rubber touching the rock. I wish the rubber was a tad stickier, however.

Toe box has a dynamic, precision shape that fits in tiny pockets.

Lots of rubber atop foot made toe hooking exceptionally great, but a heel with too much dead space compromised heel-hooking performance.

The shoe strives to reach that fine balance between sensitivity and support, comfort and performance, and meets those expectations for what a great performance shoe should be.

This reasonably priced performance shoe has a ton of great features. The toe rubber atop of the foot, however, has begun peeling away from the shoe after a few months of wear.

 

Share

WHERE TO BUY

  • Doug Lipinski

    It makes me sad that $145 is now a “reasonably priced” shoe, high performance or not.

    • mike

      And that’s now the low-end for high performance climbing shoes; they are creeping up to $175-$200 being standard.