The Evolv Addict (MSRP $99) is a soft, flat-lasted slipper that does great for gym climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, but really shines as a crack climbing shoe. Really, you can think about it as Evolv’s answer to the perennial classic Five Ten Moccasym. What I like about the Addict is that it’s easy on, easy off; and it’s suitable to a wide range of climbing applications and climbers.
Its downsides are that it stretches a lot, the rubber could be stickier, the heel could be lower volume, and I had a hot spot in heel.
It’s hard not to compare the Evolv Addict to the Five Ten Moccasym, and in fact, even in direct, head-to-head testing I had a hard time distinguishing a difference between the two. The Moccasym is one of my favorite crack-climbing shoes and now, so is the Addict.
There are a few minor differences between the two shoes: The Addict seems to fit slightly wider feet better. The Addict is slightly softer than the Moccasym. And Evolv’s TRAX rubber is slightly less sticky than Five Ten’s Stealth C4.
One downside to the Addict is the hot spot in the heel, at the attachment point of the rubber sole.
For a flat-lasted, soft shoe, the Addict edges well enough in most situations, but struggles on the steeper toe-in climbing.
It’s easy to bend your foot and pressing into smears thanks to the soft soled design. Trax rubber seems to be slightly less sticky than other rubbers, and I felt less secure on dishes.
As a slipper, these shoes aren’t really meant for hardcore heel-hooking. Thanks to their softness, toe hooking works well in most situations. I wish there was less rubber on the heel for hooking, and the fit was lower volume and therefore less likely to slip off.
The Addicts do their job of easily getting your toes and feet into a variety of crack sizes and allow you to torque and jam to your heart’s content. Great crack shoe, especially for desert environments like Indian Creek and Joshua Tree, but would need stickier rubber to really perform well in places like Yosemite.
At the toe box, the Addict is super comfortable. The wider volume fit my foot better than the Moccasym, actually. However, there was a significant hot spot at the heel, where the rubber from the sole comes up and attaches. This compromised comfort a bit.
Bottom line, these are bomber all-around/beginner shoes that are built to last a long time, all for under $100.