Tommy Caldwell contemplates the next move. Grand Canyon. Photo: Corey Rich

Crossing the Impossible

Going from doubt to belief

Jan 5, 2021 | Stories | 4 comments

Jan 5, 2021 | Stories | 4 comments

I recently tried the moves for the first time on a route that is at least one full letter grade above my hardest redpoint. You know, I was “project shopping”—checking out a new line to see if it might be something I’m willing to sacrifice the necessary 10 pounds of flesh for.

Two bolts into the “real” climbing, however, I found myself shut down in a big way. I could sorta see the sequence. The beta wasn’t over my head, per se. The problem was that I just couldn’t pull the moves. I literally couldn’t pull down hard enough to stand into a devious undercling—never mind the baffling sideways deadpoint that came next.

Even with my full, sad weight resting on a bolt, I could barely grab the holds. So what to do? Should I just throw in the towel? Or should I keep trying?

I’ve found that by not pushing my on harder routes—truly hard routes that feel impossible at first—I miss out on one of the most magical transformations you could ever experience as a climber. That is, the metamorphosis of belief that takes place, from thinking something is totally impossible to …

OK, maybe it’s possible for someone …

To This is definitely possible for me … 

To I’m going to do this fucking thing!

I don’t know where else in life can one so consistently find an experience like this. Do you?

About The Author

Andrew Bisharat

Andrew Bisharat is a writer and climber based in western Colorado. He is the publisher of Evening Sends and the co-host of The RunOut podcast.

Free Climb. Free Thought.

Join the climbing discourse.

Comments

4 Comments

  1. Avatar

    That “metamorphosis of belief” is exactly what compels me to keep climbing! It is indeed a “magical transformation.” I feel like I always have trouble putting this feeling into words, but you captured it perfectly.

    Reply
  2. Avatar

    The most memorable sends I’ve had have been on a small number of routes that felt impossible the first time I tried them. Working out the sequences, I realized I would need to become a better climber to do them. And then when the send happens, it’s incredible to realize you have become that “better climber.” Have fun on your new adventure!

    Reply
  3. Avatar

    Happened to me! It was awesome!

    Reply

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