I’ve never considered any subject to be automatically excused from a healthy dose of critical examination. Even subjects as vain as rock climbing are meaningful enough to invite deep analysis.

Over the last 15 years that I’ve been covering climbing, a lot has happened and some things have changed. Perhaps the most profound difference that I can identify has been in regards to how we communicate and share ideas with each other. One thing that hasn’t changed is that climbers are an opinionated and surly lot—something I certainly appreciate and find endlessly interesting.

Social media, however, has played a large role in exacerbating some of these latent proclivities, and in some ways, it has caused the extinction of healthy disagreement in our community—though, I’m sure, other factors are to blame.

The era of writing letters to the editor of a magazine are long gone. So is our desire to seek out face-to-face conversations with folks with whom we disagree.

Now we wage our ideological and pseudo-intellectual battles online, where it’s easy to be brave—not just in one place, either, but absolutely everywhere. People seem content to while away entire afternoons to arguing in the comment fields on multiple blogs, forums, and on dozens of different Facebook pages, where the same fundamental arguments about the same exact issues take on slightly different flavors in terms of the particular congregation of commenters.

From what I can tell, the result of waging war on so many digital fronts all at once is taking a toll. Primarily, it’s exhausting. But it has also resulted in closing our minds, shutting out people whose opinions we disagree with, and pushing us further and further into the most narrow and uncompromising version of our own ideas and beliefs.

(And if this is happening in climbing, it’s 100 times worse in our political discourse.)

Pretty soon, the big picture gets lost to a nasty type of internecine digital argumentation of ideas among a group of people who, by and large, all share the exact same values and desires in their hearts.

I witnessed some of this dynamic take place last week following the publication of Davita Gurian’s controversial op-ed on this website (though, it should be said, there were also many productive, congenial conversations that took place online, as well as in person).

My overall sense is that many people are weary of this topic, but I do want to offer a few follow-up observations since, perhaps, I’m in the unique position to have seen a majority of the feedback, both the really positive reviews as well as the really negative ones.

My first observation is that readers’ response to and characterization of Davita’s story defies generalization. About half of readers interpreted Davita’s essay as a positive message of inclusivity, and a step toward creating more gender equality in our sport—though their reasons for this interpretation were quite varied. The other half disagreed with this positive interpretation, and instead saw her message as undermining a movement toward more equality in our sport—likewise, the reasons cited for this interpretation were also quite varied. Most interestingly, a reader’s gender, age, or climbing experience seemed to have no bearing whatsoever on the opinions expressed.

My second observation is how much core common ground there is among climbers on this topic. If you read between the lines, you will see that a near majority of climbers believe that sexism exists in society and therefore exists to some degree in climbing as well; that creating gender equality in our sport is a good thing; that we all benefit when there are more opportunities for female perspectives in climbing media; and that women climbers are kicking ass, and that the performance gap found in most other sports is, incredibly, much, much smaller in rock climbing.

My third observation is that much of the disagreement over this topic is primarily one of semantics. No one denies that there are examples of climbers behaving badly/inappropriately to each, nor does anyone deny that gender plays a role in group dynamics. The debate, it seems to me, is primarily over what do we call these examples, and who gets to decide what they are called?

When I say that this is an issue of semantics, I’m certainly not trying to belittle the significance of the debate, nor am I trying to undermine the very real emotions and experiences of those who’ve been affected. My point is that, clearly, words matter, as is argued in this great response. And so, so much of this discussion is simply about whether the use of loaded, complicated terms like “sexism” are appropriate when discussing certain climbing situations, climbing media, and even climbers themselves.

By and large, I see this debate as a semantical question of whether the application of some of these loaded terms is useful, necessary, and just—or is it, perhaps, unfair at best, damaging at worst?

My fourth observation is that bringing in abstract academic theories and boundless social/historical contexts can be interesting, enlightening, and beneficial. But too often these erudite tangents become obtuse hammers used to try to squash online foes. The result is that conversation can quickly get derailed and lost in hypothetical possibilities.

In other words, it can be derailed from a conversation that is specific to climbing, to one that is broadly about social justice. Certainly, there is a Venn diagram between these two topics. It’s just that so much of the conversation diverges from the original topic and instead becomes a disagreement over where the Venn diagram’s intersections are located.

Speaking of greater contexts … holy hell, Davita’s article couldn’t have run during a more inopportune moment in America as, last week, we witnessed the sickening inauguration of a sex offender and malignant narcissist who seems hellbent on turning the clock back a hundred years. As a publisher, the decision to run Davita’s story, and with such an arguably inflammatory headline, was certainly bad timing on my part—although I do hope that most climbers were able to ingest Davita’s essay on its own merit.

Like I said at the start of this post, I’ve never considered any subject to be too sensitive for deep critical analysis. More than anything, I’m really happy to have provided a young woman with a forum to voice her opinion about a much-debated topic in climbing. As a guy who has worked in climbing media for a long time, I have always believed it’s important to do what I can to encourage and amplify more female voices in our discourse.

That said, in the spirit of this historic weekend—in which millions of amazing women marched in protest of our vile and sexist president …

In the spirit of our own progressive climbing community, which I truly believe to be more united about the important stuff in regards to gender equality in climbing than I think some of the recent, heated debates may suggest ….

And in the spirit of simply putting up a positive post about women on Evening Sends in light of the heated online debates, I wanted to give a big shout out and thank you to all the women who have been very influential and inspiring to me personally.

There are dozens more, but these climbers are ones who, for one reason or another, stand out to me on this weekend of women’s empowerment.

Davita

Davita GurianFirst, I should probably thank Davita—for her courage as a writer in taking on such a tough and important issue. I’ve never met her, but I feel like I’ve gotten to know her over the course of the last two months as she sent me unsolicited drafts of her essay and asked for casual feedback. It was a cool experience for me to see a relatively novice writer take on such a complex topic, remove her ego from the equation, and really pour her heart and soul into crafting a strong essay. Sharing her point of view took a lot of courage, and it was rewarded by all the men and women who found her message to be positive, and even by those whom it challenged (in a good way) to clarify and potentially even re-think their own positions on this topic. I didn’t originally foresee her story appearing on Evening Sends, but I’m happy it did. More than anything, I’m happy to have made a new friend in the process.

 

Emily Harrington. Photo: Tara Kerzner. Instagram  /  Website.

Emily Harrington. Photo: Tara Kerzner. Instagram / Website.

Emily

Thank you, Emily, for being one of the most determined women I’ve ever met. I first met Emily in Rifle, when she was a teenager being belayed by her father. I remember seeing the occasional tears that she shed during those years—and, more importantly, how little they seemed to deter her from stopping until she sent. She became the first woman to climb a 5.14a in that canyon, first with the 7 P.M. Show and, later, Zulu. Emily and I have since been on trips around the world together—Venezuela, China, Greece, Spain—and she’s one of the best, funniest, and most fun travel companions you could ever ask for. Lately, what’s been so impressive to me is to watch how Emily’s strength of character has transferred over, from comp and sport climbing to big-wall free climbing, big-mountain skiing, and high-altitude mountaineering. Emily’s achievements and fierce brand of attacking impossible challenges remind me that it’s OK to chase big goals and show emotion when you fail, just so long as you are determined to succeed.

 

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Wendy on EuroTrash (5.13b), Rifle.

Wendy

My friend Wendy has been one of my favorite climbing, training, and slam-dancing partners. She is always stoked to go crush, whether that’s crush rocks or crush a bunch of basic bitches on the dance floor who are dropping too many elbows in her direction. She’s easily one of the strongest (physically) people I’ve ever met. “Muscles on women are attractive!” she often hollers, to no one in particular. It’s a point of view I most certainly agree with.

 

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Lindsey

My friend Lindsey is a super model by trade, and a rock climber by passion. She’s simultaneously salty and sweet, and she is a naturally gifted and fearless rock climber whose achievements in this sport belie the number of years she’s been practicing it. One of the things that I appreciate most about Lindsey is how her approach has opened my eyes to seeing how the worlds of high fashion and rock climbing can be compatible pursuits—something I know I never would’ve caught myself saying ten years ago.

 

Beth Rodden, Meltdown (5.14c), FA. Photo:  Corey Rich

Beth Rodden, Meltdown (5.14c), FA. Photo: Corey Rich

Beth

Beth is one of the most important and influential female rock climbers of my generation. I occasionally wonder to what degree her legacy was partially, if very much unintentionally, overshadowed by her longtime partner, Tommy. She’s a legend who remains a superlative testament to what women can achieve in climbing. The fact that she’s become a very close friend and confidant in recent years has felt like a gift. To see someone who is so strong and yet sometimes also struggles with sharing her fears is something I appreciate. She teaches me that there’s nuance in life, and it’s worth delving in to try to understand the whole story.

 

Kate McGinnis

Kate

Back in the day, Kate would come home from a multi-day shift as a neonatal nurse, sleep for a few hours, and then show up at some national climbing competition and absolutely crush the rest of the field, which was usually half her age. She’s one of the most obscenely intelligent and strong-willed people I’ve ever met. But the thing I think I appreciate most about Kate is her ability to chase down climbing goals, professional goals, and family goals all at once. It’s not always smooth. It’s not always pretty. But striving to bring all of these things together is actually what’s most important. Years ago, Jen and I spent a week bouldering with Kate, her husband, and their two young daughters—carrying the kids around by wedging them in the folds of our crashpads. It was one of those moments that made realize that I wanted a family one day, too. The fact that Jen and I and our daughter, Piper, got to spend a week climbing with Kate and her family in the Red River Gorge last year brought all of those feelings back full circle.

 

Steph Davis free-soloing "Jah-man" (5.10) on the Sister Superior Tower in Castle Valley Utah. Photo: Keith Ladzinski

Steph Davis free-soloing “Jah-man” (5.10) on the Sister Superior Tower in Castle Valley Utah. Photo: Keith Ladzinski

Steph

Steph is the bravest person I know. There’s not even a close second. The boldness to be a free soloist and a wingsuit BASE jumper is one thing, but that’s not what I’m talking about. I’m referring to Steph’s courage to live a life full of clarity, freedom, and of her own design. Having a close friend like Steph who thinks about life with as much precision and critical analysis leaves me feeling a kind of gratitude that I don’t even know how to begin repaying. The inspiration to maximize freedom and chase passion as fearlessly as Steph is something I think about daily.

 

Colette

Colette

Colette is one of the first climbers I ever met, and we’ve been friends ever since. In all the years I’ve known Colette, I’ve literally never heard her say a bad thing about anyone else. In fact every time I go off on one of my insane, overblown rants, she’s always been someone who brings me back down to earth and insists on forcing me to see the good in people. Plus, she’s a damn good rock climber, and one of the most gifted and creative photographers I know.

 

Sasha in South Africa. Photo: Keith Ladzinski

Sasha in South Africa. Photo: Keith Ladzinski

Sasha

The first time I got to climb with Sasha, it was on some multi-pitch 5.12 in China. I think it might have been Sasha’s first time ever climbing a multi-pitch route, too. Since then, Sasha has become an unstoppable force in climbing. Her social-media presence might actually have its own gravitational field. But deep down, beyond all of that superficial stuff, I know that Sasha’s heart is always in the right place in terms of her love for climbing and our community. I think there are many people who, were they ever to find themselves in Sasha’s position, would be too afraid to use their platforms to speak out about issues that might be deemed too political or controversial. To Sasha’s credit, she has routinely used her celebrity to advance important political, environmental, and social issues in America. That’s not just courage—that’s responsibility.

 

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Jen

Of course, I wouldn’t think of compiling this list of women without naming the person with whom I’ve climbed the most over the last 10 years, who is my best friend, my favorite climbing partner ever, and my biggest inspiration. The first time I met Jen, she had already climbed a bunch of 5.13d’s and I don’t think I’d even climbed one 5.13a—whatever male ego I might have had back then, had to be quickly shelved if I were ever to going to partner up with this impressive woman.

Jen on Stockboy's Revenge (5.14b), Rifle.

Jen on Stockboy’s Revenge (5.14b), Rifle.

She mentored me as a climber while simultaneously supporting and respecting me as an equal. I tried to return that respect and support in every way I could. I belayed her when she climbed her first 5.14a, and later, her first 5.14b (becoming the first woman to reach that grade in Rifle)—all while holding down a full-time job. I’ve never met anyone else whose incredible natural talents and self-confidence are balanced by such humility. I’ve never met anyone else who is so respectful of others. And I’ve never met anyone else who quite makes me laugh and smile as frequently and fully as Jen does. And all those years of working together as climbing partners, and giving each other what we need, are all coming full circle as we enter this new phase of being parents together. Love you, babe!

OK, hope this post wasn’t too cheesy—actually, I’m sure it was, but fuck it. Given the spirit of this historic weekend, I wanted to make sure to give a shout out to all of these climbing partners who have made me a better climber and a better person. Thank you to these women, and to many others.

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  • Chris Kalman

    This is a really great article. I thought it was honest, real, unscripted, thoughtful, thought-provoking, and just plain good writing. Thank you for sharing.

  • lauren

    Def. got a little teary reading those shout-outs :)

  • VK

    I appreciate your writing this piece in response to the discussion around Davita’s article. However, at the risk of sounding negative, I would hope that in the future you might be more careful around a topic that you must be aware is extremely personal and present for so much of your readership. You mention that the title of the article was inflammatory – I would completely agree, especially given that the leader of our country would like nothing more than to silence feminism in all its forms.

    In addition to that, and something that you don’t mention, I would say that any article that tries to take on an issue like sexism in our sport should do its best to be logically sound and backed up by more than personal anecdotes. This goes doubly so for an article on a widely read blog. Of course personal opinions are just that, and are free to be expressed, but a widely published essay should aspire to a higher standard of discourse and a greater burden of proof. Again, in my mind this is especially true given the age of misinformation and public lies that we seem to be moving into.

    I don’t mean to accuse you of harboring any negative views yourself, or of being thoughtless, but I hope any future pieces on sexism, racism, or similar issues would be of a higher standard. This goes for both sides of the argument. I firmly believe that these kinds of articles and discussions can be potentially dangerous in how they perpetuate misinformation and negative views and attitudes.

    • Thanks for the comment. I think that just about every article that I’ve read about sexism in our sport has relied on personal anecdotes to build their cases–that is certainly what the two articles cited in Davita’s story do, anyway. OK, thanks! I appreciate your comment!

  • ap

    Seems like you just missed a super easy and important opportunity to celebrate the women whose opinions you seem to consistently disagree with. It’s easy to see strong female climbers and praise them for being strong. It’s more important to acknowledge voices that oppose yours and recognize them as an important part of the conversation and community. Why give Georgie or Zofia a paragraph?

    • There are a lot of people whose opinions I disagree with, and we have great, productive discussions about issues that come from places of mutual respect. Some of them were listed in this article.

      • ap

        I think it’s great that you have productive conversations. But my point is not about your personal opinions or discourse. Evening Sends is a super influential source of climbing media. Davita’s article, by being published on Evening Sends, was allowed to shape the conversation in the climbing community and left many people feeling alienated.

        The women you highlight are “very influential and inspiring to me personally.” But the problem that “Feminism gone too far” created was not a personal problem. It was an institutional problem. What I’m arguing is that there ought to be recognition by the institution, Evening Sends, of those people alienated by Davita’s article and its publishing on such an influential site. ES has lost some of its credibility because it used its influence to elevate an opinion that people found problematic for reasons beyond its essential argument.
        Linking to one of the responses was a good start, but found it peculiar that this article highlighted women who are definitely great people, but not really relevant to the problem created by the article. It seems like an easy fix too, given that you could have fairly easily extend the same structure to folks like Shelma and others who must feel pretty shitty right now and whose frustration is probably not being ameliorated by this article.

        • “Evening Sends” published a female climber’s opinion that some people found problematic and some people found inspiring– yet others found it to be a way to begin a relevant and important discussion. If the “institutional” problem is that you simply didn’t agree with one author’s opinion posted on the “institution’s” website, I’m not really sure what more there is to say. I’ve never met Shelma but I know this topic is important to her so I can only imagine she must be happy to see that there is such interest in this debate–lots of people agreeing with her and some seeing things a different way. Here is just one of many thoughtful responses I’ve seen in the last week https://thirtyfivedegreeswest.wordpress.com/2017/01/29/digging-up-the-roots-of-sexism/

          • ap

            I didn’t say that I don’t agree with the author’s opinion, only that I observed the effect it has had on certain members of the climbing community. I made the assumption that this article was an attempt to reach out to those people.
            To the extent that this article was meant to be an olive branch, I was attempting to suggest a way that it might be improved.

            You have a difficult job, and I appreciate your efforts and your role. I also appreciate that you take the time to respond to comments- this exchange has been instructive to me.

            Thank you!

          • Thank you for this comment. I understand your point now. I appreciate your perspective and I think your advice is good. I will try to reach out and see what comes of it. Thank you again

  • ED

    Ugh, sorry, but this followup piece reads to me like the women’s version of “hey I have black friends too!”

    • I can see some of that in this piece, for sure. The sentiment was really just about giving a nod to some great women who I appreciate on a weekend when women were marching across the country

  • Colin Rickert

    This article reeks of liberal progressive elitism.

    I am sorry but this statement right off the bat pretty much invalidates the rest of the article:

    “If you read between the lines, you will see that a near majority of climbers believe that sexism exists in society and therefore exists to some degree in climbing as well”

    Actually if you simply look at the most recent numbers, the majority of both men and women no longer identify as feminists and I am sure most don’t agree that there is pervasive sexism in society. If you only hang out with people who agree with you it probably seems that way (then again you probably thik Russian Hackers handed Trump the election). I certainly don’t and nor do I believe there is much of a glass ceiling anymore for women. Climbing is a unique sport in that men and women can compete as more or less equals as women are typically lighter, more flexible and have greater dexterity which tends to offset the brute strength guys have.

    But you know what Andrew? That is nothing new. We’ve known for like 20-30 years that women are roughly as good as men at climbing. Whether it was Lynn Hill in the 90’s, Josune Bereziartu in the 00’s or Ashima in the 20-teens – obviously women can climb *very* hard. What’s annoying is acting like this is some new discovery every year.

    The problem is that *some* women (typically those that go to elitist Leftist academic institutions) continue to the pretense that pervasive sexism exists and are extremely obnoxious and vociferous about this belief. They pretty much try to bully or shame others into agreeing with them but the numbers are in and they aren’t looking good for feminism.

    The fact that a woman herself got irritated enough to write an article about this (because men are generally too busy playing the “White Knight” role) should tell you that things are more skewed towards women than you probably realize. I mean, personally I don’t care because I only climb with certain people that I actually enjoy climbing with while ignoring most of the climbing media these days.

    People are tired of identity politics and I can tell you further this is the last thing I want to read about regarding climbing. Articles like this sound like pure virtue signalling. Davita’s article was original and worth reading. This just reads like sloppy seconds tbh.

    You can say I am just a jealous hater but the truth is I *am* jealous…of anyone who climbs harder than me (male or female). Who isn’t?

    Which is why I chuckled when I read this…

    “The first time I met Jen, she had already climbed a bunch of 5.13d’s and I don’t think I’d even climbed one 5.13a—whatever male ego I might have had back then, had to be quickly shelved if I were ever to going to partner up with this impressive woman.”

    I simply try to enjoy the sport now on my terms and stop worrying so damn much about what everyone else thinks. Maybe you all could try the same?

    For the record Andrew, the sport has drifted far far to the Left in the 20 some years I have participated in it. No I don’t want to talk about pervasive sexism, racism, global warming or the myriad of other cliche issues that climbers regularly love to virtue signal about and perceive the whole world must agree with.

    I hope you can understand where I am coming from…

    https://www.washingtonpost.com/graphics/national/feminism-project/poll/

    • JSYK

      According to the survey you posted: “83% of women between 18 and 34 say feminism is “empowering”.

      That statistic certainly doesn’t indicate young women have abandoned feminism. Sorry.

      And other research shows that the term/label *feminism* has basically been so hijacked by haters (like you, maybe?) who frame women who dare identify as feminists as angry radicals that people shy away from using it. That said, women, and especially younger women, still overwhelmingly identify with the goals of feminism, recognize that sexism is a problem, and agree that plenty of work remains to achieve a society that doesn’t limit their potential simply because they are women. Surveys from Pew Research, the General Social Survey, and others all clearly show this.

      Fortunately there are also guys like Andrew who can see this too.

      • Colin Rickert

        One other thing worth mentioning…

        “83% of women between 18 and 34 say feminism is “empowering,” compared with 68% of women between 35 and 49 and an even smaller percentage among older women.”

        First of all these are mostly your idiot Millenials parroting silly bandwagon labels like “empowering” that sound catchy.

        Feminism may indeed be “empowering” but that tells us little whether said empowerment is justified. Technology is also “empowering”. Nuclear weapons are “empowering”.

        Marxism is also empowering (of the proletariat).

        Unfortunately it is also evil and I don’t agree with any of its goals.

        So I am not really sure what this statement proves…

        • JSYK

          The point is that whether people label themselves feminist is irrelevant if they support the principles and goals of feminism — namely that individuals (including men) should not be limited in their life potential simply on the basis of sex/gender. This notion is by its very nature empowering, certainly for women, but it can be empowering for men too.

          I imagine this is what most women mean when they say that feminism is empowering. Supporting this principle/concept is not the same as supporting the specific tactics of every individual activist who self-identifies as feminist.

          • Colin Rickert

            Feminism can only be “empowering” for men if they white knight and attack other men who refuse to participate in their religious cult.

          • JSYK

            Well, men who want to claim rights to be parents/fathers, have stronger relationships with family and the freedom to care about or participate in non-traditionally masculine things, not have to be expected to always be macho/aggressive, etc…can probably gain something they consider valuable from greater gender equality. But you’re right, traditional gender roles awarded most power to men.

          • Colin Rickert

            1. We haven’t had traditional gender roles in place for decades.
            2. The current “gender role” is for women to be the bread winner and suck all the resources from the men via the state. Women are net tax recipients as a whole throughout their lives while men are net tax debtors. And since taxation is theft we can safely say that this racket called “feminism” is the biggest in world history.
            3. Men constantly have to fight for the parental and custodial rights as the court system automatically and blindly grants women these rights. Women are actively abusing the system and stripping men of their paternal rights in some cases (as in mine) pushing the men out of the household literally within months of child birth and then sucking child care payments out of them while continuing to restrict access.

            You can get off your high horse now.

  • JSYK

    I didn’t call you a hater. I questioned (in parentheses) whether you might be… based on the language and hyperbole you chose to use in your initial comment. If you aren’t a hater, then maybe consider not acting like one?

    • Colin Rickert

      Fair enough – I suppose it was just a “suggestion”. I in turn question whether you are communist or not. If you are offended, I will just assume I am right…

      You actually believe most women are feminists, that most climbers are feminists or believe that feminism is valuable and necessary.

      But obviously the intention isn’t to get at the truth (which would for instance require you to post as yourself instead of in anonymity). Its to present inuendo, suggestions, gaslighting, etc.

      Climbing is not a sport with pervasive sexism or racism or anything-ism. It’s not an “ism” sport. Its an outdoor sport you can participate in if you like it – period. Claiming there is pervasive sexism i an absurd statement made by those who wish to gaslight other climbers into their own ideology.

      There are videos on YouTube now claiming that outdoor sports are also inherently racist and full of “white privilege”. The underlying pathology is that wherever white males go they will either be harassed into accepting a social justice warrior persona or vacating the premise. Where does the madness end? Should we just say wherever non-liberal white males are there is pervasive sexism/racism? Do you have any idea how insane that sounds to anyone with common sense?

      If you want to find a place with pervasive sexism I suggest you go to the Middle East. The ironic thing though, is that I find the Modern Feminists seem to love Islam and Muslim culture which shows that underneath all the virtue signalling there is only contempt for Western culture and values.