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Currently viewing the category: "Gear"
mammut-climax

Review: Mammut Climax 9.6

On February 2, 2012 By AB

Normally I shy away from ropes that lack dry treatment because I find them to be less durable than their dry-treated counterparts. My opinion has changed with this new budget-priced rope, the Mammut Climax, a 9.6 mm cord that lacks dry treatment.

I’ve been whipping on the Climax all summer and fall, and still [...]

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FEN

Review: Patagonia Northwall Jacket and Pants

On February 2, 2012 By AB

Like most people who are active in wintry mountains, I prefer the breathability and comfort of soft shells to the absolute waterproofness of hard shells. If it’s actually raining, I’m heading home. However, I often find most soft shells to be too thin to wear in truly cold weather without employing multiple layers—often [...]

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Evolv-Shaman-Rock-Climbing-Shoe

Evolv Shaman

On January 28, 2012 By AB
What It Is

High-performance climbing shoe, designed by Chris Sharma, for vertical to overhanging sport climbing and bouldering.

The Verdict

The shape and design of this shoe provide a lot of performance features for a climbing shoe that is wickedly comfortable. The Shaman is not only a great way to break into the category of [...]

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RedLacci 006

Scarpa Instinct

On January 28, 2012 By AB
What It Is

Gently downturned, precision edging shoe for vertical to overhanging sport and trad climbs.

The Verdict

The Scarpa Instinct is a lace-up climbing shoe that finds a home on everything from all-day trad climbs to performance sport-climbing days to V-hard boulder problems. With only 3.5mm of rubber on the sole, the [...]

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La-Sportiva-Python2

La Sportiva Pythons

On January 28, 2012 By AB
What It Is

An indoor bouldering and route-climbing slipper that also has a place outdoors on steep pockets and edging climbs.

The Verdict

One of the better slippers on the market—a new take on a classic design. The Python features some modern upgrades such as rubber on top of the toe for toe [...]

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0ae39813-d1f5-4d25-b69d-7ae24c7ed8a2

Tested: Maxim Glider 9.9mm

On October 5, 2011 By AB

As magazine editors continue to praise the next lightest weight gear, companies have incentives to make their products lighter and lighter. But when does lightweight become too light?

If there is one piece of gear that I want to be burly, it’s my rope. And I have yet to find a burlier sub-10mm [...]

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arc_5844_raisin_09

Tested: ArcTeryx Miura 50

On October 5, 2011 By AB

While many products wax on about the having the lightest this and the strongest that, I find that out in the field, it’s the simplest things that make the most difference … like being able to get into your pack and access your gear quickly and easily. After all, it’s an action you [...]

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scarpa_mago__66941_zoom

Tested: Scarpa Mago

On October 5, 2011 By AB

The Mago is one of the best shoes I’ve ever worn for sport climbing, and after years of using them to make brilliant ascents of the Rifle warm-ups, I cannot say that this opinion has changed. The Mago, designed by genius cobbler Heinz Mariacher, manages to perform well in every type of face-climbing [...]

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sp_solution

Tested: La Sportiva Solution

On October 5, 2011 By AB

I reviewed the Solutions a few years ago and thought they were great: I loved them for their comfortable fit and downturned, aggressive last and crazy precision. I originally noted that the shoe didn’t smear well, and it took a long time to break in. However, after a year of hard use, my [...]

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sp_miuraxs

Guide to Choosing Climbing Shoes

On September 28, 2011 By AB

Climbing shoes have the distinction of being the only piece of gear that can actually help you climb better. But what to get? There are close to 200 climbing shoes on the market, billed for all different types of climbing, from gym to sport to trad to alpine rock, with lots of crossover. [...]

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