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Currently viewing the category: "Feature articles"
oliana_spain_3_28_2011_114

Climbing to the Death

On December 8, 2011 By AB


OLIANA, EVENING, 58 degrees F, a magic wind blows. Chris Sharma screamed and everyone froze.

“Venga, venga!” the chorus shouted.

“Venga, tio!”

“Venga, bicho!”

“Venga, venga, venga! A muerte!”

Again Chris produced his distinctive animal yell. We kept screaming for him to Go! Go! Go!

Chris clung to the wall by infinitesimal points, [...]

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Venezuela_blog-18

Low Hanging Fruit

On July 9, 2011 By AB

 

WHEN I MET JOSE MIRANDA at a local bouldering zone near Carbondale, I thought he might be homeless. In the climbing world, that’s not an insult—but that is how I meant it. Like he might be a crazy, jabbering vagabond. It’s just Jose’s look. Unkempt. Earthy. The missing incisor tooth. The [...]

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malbs7-6732

Deep Water Zeitgeist

On May 22, 2011 By AB

PART ONE: Nothing will stop us, everything we do is right

 

Deep-water soloing didn’t always exist. Once, there was darkness on the face of the deep, and spirit was on the water. Climbing’s collective glaucoma obscured Mallorca’s seaside walls, making them colorless, gray. Around 2003, a climbing film showed Klem Loskot dynoing like [...]

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Chris on Jumbo Love (5.15b)

Zen & the Art of Jeep Maintenance

On May 17, 2011 By AB

The scorched desert expanse surrounding Las Vegas smears together into one terrible brown color as we whiz along at 90 miles per hour in an old Jeep Grand Cherokee. The American West, this celebrated frontier, as tame as it has become with commercialism and super highways, is still the last good [...]

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images

Unconscionably Fashionable: Brief History of Climbing Clothing

On May 11, 2011 By AB

What is climbing’s biggest taboo?

Bolting cracks? Chipping holds? Stealing a redtagged route?

No, no and … no! Climbing’s biggest taboo is admitting that the sport has fashion—and further, that you buy into it, too. Oh, you do. I’ve seen you. You definitely try to look like “a climber.” You want [...]

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20101016-img_9405

Fear & Living in Rifle

On November 14, 2010 By AB
Last Sunday, my most enduring redpoint battle came to an end, and I clipped the chains on Living in Fear. I wrote about my then failed efforts to mount this prude bitch in a recent Tuesday Night Bouldering in Rock and Ice, which can be read HERE. Despite already having written so extensively about my painfully trivial trials and tribulations [...]
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