__Margalef, 67 degrees, some humidity, last day. We returned to Margalef as a huge gang that included Joe Kinder, Colette McInerny, Sam Elias and Emily Harrington. Chris and Daila came to the crag as well with their good friends and neighbors Cristian La Miel and his girlfriend, Ana Carreras.

We were all hoping to see Chris send Perfecto Mundo, the next “hardest route in the world,” and though he came close, sticking the pinch off the mono/dyno, he fell while adjusting on the hold.

It was my last climbing day in Spain, and I debated how to spend it. Around the corner were some amazing-looking 5.12d to 5.13b routes that Chris and Daila enthusiastically recommended. I guessed I could maybe onsight or flash one or two of them, or at least try. Bringing home another onsight would be nice, I thought.

But I wasn’t psyched on that. All I wanted to do was get back on the 5.13c pocket route that I had tried the day before. All I wanted was to execute the hardest moves I could on a route that’s near my limit.

I’ll give away the ending, and tell you that I did not redpoint El Fustigador. I tried it three times, each time making bigger links, but never having the energy and resistance needed to put it all together. On that third redpoint attempt, my last pitch in Spain, I experienced something of an epiphany. It was a recognition of what I enjoy most about climbing—hard, creative, wild free climbing. What made it memorable was that I was able to enjoy that acceptance in the very moment of placing my feet on dime-sized smears while cranking through two-finger pockets, climbing up and onto that fine line where you are so barely attached to the rock but somehow you are able to keep going. In a fever of confidence, I felt completely unattached to the desire or need to attain successes, ticks and trophies. All I craved was to be on the sharp end of a long, skinny rope and riding the stone, fully a muerte, toward that arterial blood-red horizon in which there’s a future holding the promise of greater things to come.

This article appeared in issue #196 of Rock and Ice magazine.

All (good) photos are property of Keith Ladzinski.

Keith Ladzinski is based in Colorado Springs, Colorado, and is one of climbing’s foremost photographers. His portraits and climbing photos can always be found in Rock and Ice among elsewhere. Be sure to check out his website: www.ladzinski.com where you can find more samples of his work.

LOGISTICS

The launching pad for any climbing adventure in Catalunya is the industrial city of Lleida (pop: 100,000), two hours northwest of Barcelona. While Catalunya is best known for its hard routes, there are bolt-clipping adventures at every level—single and multi-pitch. For example, the new guidebook Lleida Climbs, by Pete O’Donovan and Dani Andrada, contains about 1,900 climbs, of which more than 50 percent are easier than 5.11d.

Most of the climbing areas are named after the closest village and can be located with any map. That said, Lleida Climbs (www.lleidaclimbs.com) is the best source of information for reaching these crags and towns. Lleida Climbs doesn’t contain information for Rodellar, Siurana or Margalef. The guide to Margalef can only be found at the refugio in the village of Margalef.

Routes 5.6 to 5.10: There is an excellent article on lleidaclimbs.com that recommends areas that cater to routes in this range. View it Here.

Gear: I recommend a skinny long rope: a 70-, 80- or 100-meter 9.4mm. Also, bring 20 of the lightest draws such as the Black Diamond Oz or CAMP Orbit Express Dyneema. A rack of draws for a 50-meter route will get quite heavy.

Season: Year-round climbing opportunities exist, and it really doesn’t matter what month you choose to go, though July and August are the most limited. Winter is the most popular time to visit even though it can be difficult with rain and a dense, cold fog called “La Boira” that can linger for weeks.

Accommodations: In the warmer months, it’s best to camp at the ubiquitous campgrounds. Sites are usually fully equipped with everything you need. To step it up, a refugio, hotel or renting a house are all great options. The best resource is the Lleida tourism website: www.lleidatur.com and www.catalunya.com.

Other beta: Renting a car is best if you plan on visiting more than one crag. Otherwise, it’s easy to take the train from the Barcelona airport to, say, Terradets—where there is a refugio and a hotel right at the train station, 10 minutes’ walk from the climbing. Gas is expensive ($8/gallon), so if you rent a car, get a diesel for better gas mileage. While Spain is renowned for its cuisine, dining options are hit and miss. Cooking yourself, with delicious Spanish produce (particularly olive oil, wine, seafood and spices like paprika and saffron), is the most reliable bet. For more information on Spain, visit www.spain.info.

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